Avalanche Danger – 2010.08.24<\/p>\n
Ne trezim cu noaptea-n cap \u015fi \u00eencepem echiparea. Pentru prima oar\u0103 folosim ham, coard\u0103, cordeline, ascensoare, opt-uri, carabiniere \u015fi toate celelalte echipamente de c\u0103\u0163\u0103rat ce au ruginit p\u00e2n\u0103 acum a\u015ftept\u00e2nd s\u0103 le folosim. La 6 diminea\u0163a, pe un frig n\u0103prasnic ne \u00eentalnim cu Ernest \u015fi Sunny, omule\u0163ii cu care credeam c\u0103 vom urca \u00eempreun\u0103. Dar o echipa nu se formeaz\u0103 cu o sear\u0103 \u00eenainte, \u015fi nici nu apuc\u0103 s\u0103 travers\u0103m ghe\u0163arul c\u0103ci cei 2 lituanieni au deja un avans irecuperabil. Suntem din nou pe picioarele noastre, e mai bine a\u015fa, ne descurc\u0103m altfel.<\/p>\n
Urmez\u0103 por\u0163iunea care se anun\u0163\u0103 a fi cea mai periculoas\u0103 din tot traseul. E marcat\u0103 cu cap de mort \u015fi pericol iminent de avalan\u015f\u0103 \u00een toate h\u0103r\u0163ile \u015fi c\u0103r\u0163ile studiate. E o trecere pe sub o mas\u0103 imens\u0103 de z\u0103pad\u0103 ce at\u00e2rn\u0103 de un fir de a\u0163\u0103. Decidem c\u0103 e mai bine s\u0103 ne leg\u0103m \u00een coard\u0103 pentru a s\u0103ri mai \u00een siguran\u0163\u0103 crevasele. Ne mi\u015fc\u0103m a\u015fa \u00eencet \u00eenc\u00e2t toate echipele ne-au \u00eentrecut. Mersul lega\u0163i \u00een coard\u0103 nu e o op\u0163iune prea bun\u0103 \u00eentr-o zon\u0103 cu pericol de avalan\u015fe, mai ales c\u0103ci ne \u00eencurc\u0103.<\/p>\n
Totu\u015fi e prea diminea\u0163\u0103 pentru avalan\u015fe ast\u0103zi. Suntem ierta\u0163i, trecem de zona periculoas\u0103, \u015fi facem o pauz\u0103 de schimbare a strategiei. Aveam ca plan s\u0103 urc\u0103m p\u00e2n\u0103 la 5800 m, dar avem mult mai multa greutate pe noi, si e clar, nu suntem ref\u0103cu\u0163i dupa zilele trecute. Mai mult, b\u0103tr\u00e2nii ne recomand\u0103 s\u0103 nu urc\u0103m cu coarda pe noi, a\u015fa c\u0103 le ascult\u0103m sfatul.<\/p>\n
Ajungem la peretele ce din tab\u0103ra de baz\u0103 pare vertical. Ei, se pare c\u0103 are o \u00eenclinare intre 50 \u015fi 80 grade. Sunt 2 variante..pe st\u00e2nc\u0103 ori pe ghea\u0163\u0103. Pe st\u00e2nc\u0103 tot am mai c\u0103\u0163\u0103rat, pe ghea\u0163\u0103 mai pu\u0163in, a\u015fa c\u0103 \u00eencerc\u0103m ceva nou.<\/p>\n
Gentlemani fiind, \u00eei l\u0103s\u0103m pe to\u0163i s\u0103 treac\u0103 \u00eenaintea noastr\u0103. Am r\u0103mas ultimii, dar avem noi grijile noastre, nu mai conteaz\u0103 asta. Avem \u00een fa\u0163\u0103 un perete de 700 m aproape vertical, un perete de ghea\u0163\u0103, \u015fi ni\u015fte corzi fixe ce citisem c\u00e2ndva c\u0103 sunt ca o rulet\u0103 ruseasc\u0103, trebuie s\u0103 ai noroc s\u0103 nimere\u015fti coarda cea bun\u0103.<\/p>\n
\u00cencepem ascensiunea, pentru prima oar\u0103 \u00eentelegem la ce sunt bune ascensoarele. Iar \u00een combina\u0163ie cu piole\u0163ii \u015fi col\u0163arii, c\u00e2\u015ftig\u0103m \u00een altitudine. Totu\u015fi se merge greu, c\u0103ci \u015fi cei dinaintea noastr\u0103 se a\u015fteapt\u0103 \u00eentre ei. Puncte de asigurare nu prea exist\u0103, a\u015fa c\u0103 improviz\u0103m pe ni\u015fte \u0163ancuri ce stau s\u0103 cad\u0103. Trecem de o coard\u0103, a doua….\u00een total sunt 6, iar ultima e cea mai lung\u0103, mai mult de 200 m \u00een lungime. Cei 700 m de perete urca\u0163i se resimt mai ales la nivelul bra\u0163elor \u015fi antebra\u0163elor, acestea fiind folosite foarte mult mai ales \u00een cazul ascensoarelor.<\/p>\n
Ajungem undeva pe un fel de \u015fea, unde \u00eencerc\u0103m s\u0103 ne tragem sufletul. De aici urmeaz\u0103 un alt perete, nu a\u015fa vertical, dar f\u0103r\u0103 corzi fixe. O urcare de 200 m, abrupt\u0103 \u015fi expus\u0103, ce ne stoarce de energie. Dar surpriz\u0103, sus ne asteapt\u0103 tab\u0103ra de la 5300 m. Ultima urcare a fost criminal de grea.<\/p>\n
Clar, ast\u0103zi ne oprim aici, e timpul s\u0103 ne hidrat\u0103m. Repede s\u0103p\u0103m un loc de cort, zona e mult prea expus\u0103 de v\u00e2nt, a\u015fa c\u0103 facem o gaur\u0103 \u00een z\u0103pad\u0103 destul de ad\u00e2nc\u0103.
\nE deja sear\u0103 c\u00e2nd ne apuc\u0103m de gospod\u0103rit, \u015fi \u00eenc\u0103 odat\u0103, prindem un apus de vis….<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Ne trezim cu noaptea-n cap \u015fi \u00eencepem echiparea. Pentru prima oar\u0103 folosim ham, coard\u0103, cordeline, ascensoare, opt-uri, carabiniere \u015fi toate celelalte echipamente de c\u0103\u0163\u0103rat ce au ruginit p\u00e2n\u0103 acum a\u015ftept\u00e2nd s\u0103 le folosim.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1995,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"","_seopress_titles_title":"","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[32,42,44,29],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1004","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-expeditii","category-kommunisma","category-korzhenevskaya","category-pamir"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1004","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1004"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1004\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1995"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1004"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1004"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1004"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}