{"id":1175,"date":"2013-02-25T06:00:54","date_gmt":"2013-02-25T06:00:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/adventure.mystagingwebsite.com\/hoinarii-oraseni-pe-muchie-de-cutit-intre-gheturi-si-prapastii\/"},"modified":"2014-09-28T13:38:32","modified_gmt":"2014-09-28T13:38:32","slug":"hoinarii-oraseni-pe-muchie-de-cutit-intre-gheturi-si-prapastii","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/hoinarii-oraseni-pe-muchie-de-cutit-intre-gheturi-si-prapastii\/","title":{"rendered":"HOINARII. Or\u0103\u015feni pe muchie de cu\u0163it, \u00eentre ghe\u0163uri \u015fi pr\u0103p\u0103stii"},"content":{"rendered":"

Cine sunt rom\u00e2nii care-\u015fi preg\u0103tesc anul sabatic pe Everest. C\u0103l\u0103torii la limita dintre via\u0163\u0103 \u015fi moarte<\/strong><\/p>\n

Tibi scr\u00e2\u015fne\u015fte din din\u0163i desfigurat, se lupt\u0103 cu dou\u0103 gantere, g\u00e2f\u00e2ie \u015fi apoi, lac de sudoare, trage u\u015fa s\u0103lii de sport \u015fi o ia la s\u0103n\u0103toasa prin z\u0103pad\u0103. Nu, n-a fugit, z\u00e2mbe\u015fte Bogdan C\u00e2l\u0163ia, antrenorul. \u201cL-am trimis afar\u0103 s\u0103 alerge prin z\u0103pad\u0103, \u00een jurul s\u0103lii, s\u0103-\u015fi fortifice pl\u0103m\u00e2nii!\u201d. Pare dur, dar e obligat. \u0218tie c\u0103 fiecare exerci\u0163iu fizic, oric\u00e2t de banal ar p\u0103rea, i-ar putea salva via\u0163a elevului s\u0103u acolo, sus, pe Everest. C\u0103ci Tiberiu Pintilie zis Tibi \u015fi-a calculat bine: \u00een aprilie \u00ee\u015fi va lua lumea-n cap \u015fi va fugi s\u0103 cucereasc\u0103 v\u00e2rful Terrei cu \u00eenc\u0103 patru prieteni: Stelian P\u0103v\u0103lache, Robert Chirileanu \u015fi curajoasa Oana Harabagiu. O student\u0103 frumoas\u0103 \u015fi fragil\u0103 ca o p\u0103pu\u015f\u0103 de por\u0163elan. Vor marca, astfel, zece ani de la prima expedi\u0163ie rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 pe Everest. Dar asta-i cost\u0103 mult\u0103 trud\u0103 \u00eenc\u0103 de aici, de la Bucure\u015fti. De c\u00e2teva luni se antreneaz\u0103 zilnic tuspatru, nesf\u00e2r\u015fite ore dup\u0103 serviciu, seara, cumin\u0163i \u015fi transpira\u0163i, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 scoat\u0103 un sunet. Dou\u0103 luni de zile vor sta acolo sus, \u00een mun\u0163i, suspenda\u0163i \u00eentre cer \u015fi p\u0103m\u00e2nt, printre pr\u0103p\u0103stii, ghe\u0163ari \u015fi bolovani. Va fi anul lor sabatic pe muchie de cu\u0163it, Dup\u0103 un an de munc\u0103 tenace \u00een jungla ora\u015fului, au decis c\u0103 merit\u0103 ce-i mai bun: riscul calculat. Stelian e fotograf, Tibi, tehnician \u00een telecomunica\u0163ii, iar Robert, om de televiziune. Tibi, \u00eens\u0103, e cel mai excentric dintre to\u0163i: toate pauzele lui de lume \u015fi le-a petrecut \u00een nori, la limita dintre via\u0163\u0103 \u015fi moarte, \u00een cele mai periculoase locuri din lume: pe Mont Blanc, la 4807de metri, pe Etna (3330 metri), \u00een Caucaz, pe Cho Oyu (8201metri) din Himalaya sau \u00een Pamir, p\u00e2n\u0103 la 7495 de metri. Acolo unde corpul \u00eencepe s\u0103 moar\u0103 \u00een sensul propriu.<\/p>\n

\u201cTibi se lupt\u0103 cu lentilele de contact, Adi cu diareea\u201d<\/strong>
\n\u00cen 2010 a tr\u0103it-o pe pielea lui \u00een Pamir, Tadjikistan, c\u00e2nd a dus o lupt\u0103 cr\u00e2ncen\u0103 cu sine – \u015fi el, \u015fi tovar\u0103\u015fii de drum. Necazurile au \u00eenceput din a doua s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2n\u0103 \u015fi toat\u0103 istoria e trecut\u0103 \u00een jurnalul de c\u0103l\u0103torie: \u201cZiua a opta – facem aclimatizare la 4.600 de metri. Ne-am trezit pe Ia 7 jumate, am preg\u0103tit \u00eempreun\u0103 m\u00e2ncarea, lapte praf cu Nutrifort, cereale, un baton energizant \u015fi dou\u0103 vitamine, am sp\u0103lat vasele, am reparat cortul\u201d. Iar a doua zi: \u201cUn soare puternic ne treze\u015fte dis-de-diminea\u0163\u0103. Pe Lucian \u015fi pe Radu \u00eenc\u0103 \u00eei doare capul, Tibi se lupt\u0103 cu lentilele de contact, iar Adi cu diareea (…). Rucsacii devin din ce \u00een ce mai mari \u015fi mai grei. Drumul nu e bine semnalizat, mergem pe morene, de multe ori trezindu-ne c\u0103 ne afl\u0103m \u00een mijlocul ghe\u0163arului sau pe o pant\u0103 abrupt\u0103. Pe Radu \u00eenc\u0103 \u00eel doare r\u0103u capul, l-am b\u0103gat \u00een cort, i-am dat bocancii jos \u015fi l-am bagat \u00een sac, ne spune Tibi din cortul vecin\u201d. \u00centr-un final, Radu Simion aproape c\u0103 a fost la un pas de moarte. A f\u0103cut edem pulmonar \u015fi cerebral. Noroc cu elicopterul c\u0103 l-a c\u0103rat urgent jos, \u00een ora\u015f, la spital.<\/p>\n

Delicatesa \u00een\u0103l\u0163imilor: sup\u0103 de z\u0103pad\u0103 fiart\u0103<\/strong>
\nZiua a zecea. Lucian Ro\u015fu \u015fi Tibi zac nemi\u015fca\u0163i \u00een cort cu dureri de cap. Abia reu\u015fesc s\u0103 schi\u0163eze c\u00e2teva gesturi. Este efectul presiunii \u015fi al lipsei de oxigen. Adi Fako e cel mai zdrav\u0103n ast\u0103zi: tope\u015fte z\u0103pada \u00een cort, o fierbe, \u00eei adaug\u0103 pastile sterilizatoare, vars\u0103 plicul de sup\u0103, \u00eei adaug\u0103 c\u00e2teva buc\u0103\u0163i de sl\u0103nin\u0103 \u015fi-\u015fi hr\u0103ne\u015fte tovar\u0103\u015fii. Deja \u00eencep s\u0103 piard\u0103 din puteri.<\/p>\n

Ziua a 12-a: \u201cUrc\u0103m p\u00e2n\u0103 la 5100 de metri spre Cetireh. Mergem pe morena lateral\u0103 a ghe\u0163arului Moskvina, printre seracuri \u015fi creva\u015fe, prin zone cu pericol de avalan\u015fe. Pentru prima oar\u0103 sim\u0163im frigul \u015fi v\u00e2ntul de Pamir. \u00cemprumut\u0103m dou\u0103 lope\u0163i \u015fi repejor s\u0103p\u0103m dormitorul. Ziua a 13 – urcarea spre colosul de 6400 de metri devine dificil\u0103. La fiecare zece minute facem pauz\u0103 de odihn\u0103. Din c\u00e2nd \u00een c\u00e2nd suntem zgudui\u0163i de avalan\u015fe. Mai respir\u0103m o or\u0103 aer Ia 6100 de metri, pentru aclimatizare\u201d. Restul zilei \u015fi-au petrecut-o cu h\u00e2rtia igienic\u0103 \u00een m\u00e2n\u0103. Dizenterie. Dar chiar \u015fi a\u015fa, tot sunt noroco\u015fi c\u0103 sunt \u00eenc\u0103 \u00eempreun\u0103. Echipa spaniol\u0103 a abandonat expedi\u0163ia pe v\u00e2rful Korzhenevskaya: unii s-au certat, al\u0163ii au cedat fizic \u015fi psihic. Ai no\u015ftri stau \u00een cort lipi\u0163i unii de al\u0163ii, \u00eemp\u0103r\u0163ind \u00een trei un biscuite cu ciocolat\u0103. Le iese abur din gur\u0103 \u015fi ar ucide pentru un du\u015f \u015fi-o friptur\u0103 bine f\u0103cut\u0103, dar Tibi se \u0163ine de bancuri: \u201c\u0218i acum v\u0103 prezent\u0103m prognoza meteo! M\u00e2ine va fi cald \u015fi bine… sigur, la altitudini sub 5 600 de metri\u201d.<\/p>\n

\u201cSim\u0163im greutatea fiec\u0103rui cubule\u0163 de zah\u0103r\u201d<\/strong>
\n\u00cen ziua a 16-a rucsacii devin brusc imposibili. Mai devreme acolo jos, \u00een tab\u0103r\u0103, \u00ee\u015fi num\u0103raser\u0103 fiecare cub de zah\u0103r necesar pe drum, fiecare plic, fiecare bucat\u0103 de p\u00e2ine, s\u0103 fie siguri c\u0103 le ajung. Acum le vine s\u0103 arunce totul \u00een z\u0103pad\u0103, numai s\u0103 scape de \u201ccrucea\u201d aia imens\u0103 de 25 de kile din spinare. Dar nu se pot lipsi de cort \u015fi sac de dormit, de col\u0163ari, carabiniere, hamuri, be\u0163e, corzi, piole\u0163i, funii \u015fi multe altele.
\n\u201cTraseul e pres\u0103rat cu ghea\u0163\u0103 ca sticla. Sim\u0163im greutatea fiec\u0103rui cubule\u0163 de zah\u0103r. Urmeaz\u0103 o trecere dificil\u0103 pe sub cap\u0103tul inferior al unui ghe\u0163ar. C\u00e2t un bloc de 40 de etaje. Trecem unul c\u00e2te unul, aproape alerg\u00e2nd pe sub ghe\u0163ar\u201d. Ziua urm\u0103toare a fost un film de groaz\u0103: \u201cUn rus merge pe l\u00e2ng\u0103 perete rezemat de el, s\u0103 nu fie lovit. 0 fric\u0103 de nedescris ne cuprinde. Mergem ca broa\u015ftele \u0163estoase, cu spatele Ia perete. Faci un pas \u00een fa\u0163a cortului, \u00ee\u0163i cad pietre \u00een cap; faci doi pa\u015fi, cazi \u00een h\u0103u\u201d. Se pare c\u0103 doi unguri au plecat de la 5800 de metri spre v\u00e2rf \u015fi nu s-au mai \u00eentors. \u00cen ziua cea mare, c\u00e2nd s\u0103 ajung\u0103 \u015fi ai no\u015ftri pe v\u00e2rf, alt necaz: hydrobag-ul lui Tibi s-a fisurat. “C\u00e2t de r\u0103u e?”, \u00eentreab\u0103 Adi. “Destul de r\u0103u, pe spate sunt ud p\u00e2na Ia piele. S-a scurs ceva din ceaiul \u0103la!”, r\u0103spunde Tibi. Dar asta nu-l \u00eempiedic\u0103 cu nimic, el vrea s\u0103 urce p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een v\u00e2rful Korzhenevskaya a\u015fa, cu spinarea ud\u0103.<\/p>\n

SMS cu lacrimi \u00eenghe\u0163ate pe obraji: \u201cImposibilul exist\u0103 doar \u00een g\u00e2ndul vostru\u201d<\/strong>
\n\u015ei o face, num\u0103r\u00e2nd \u00een g\u00e2nd ca un copil: \u00eenc\u0103 zece pa\u015fi, \u00eenc\u0103 16 respira\u0163ii. Pe urm\u0103 n-a mai avut r\u0103bdare, ultimii pa\u015fi p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een v\u00e2rf i-a f\u0103cut alerg\u00e2nd. Iar sus de tot la 7105 metri, g\u00e2f\u00e2ind fl\u0103m\u00e2nzi \u015fi osteni\u0163i, abia au mai avut putere s\u0103 chiuie \u015fi s\u0103 se ia \u00een bra\u0163e. Se preg\u0103tiser\u0103 un an \u00eentreg pentru o bucurie scurt\u0103 de 40 de minute. S-au conectat la satelit \u015fi au trimis acas\u0103 un SMS: \u201cNu \u00eenceta\u0163i niciodat\u0103 s\u0103 visa\u0163i, s\u0103 crede\u0163i \u00een visele voastre, s\u0103 vre\u0163i mai mult ca oricine s\u0103 le \u00eendeplini\u0163i. Imposibilul exist\u0103 doar \u00een g\u00e2ndul vostru. Noi am visat, am vrut, am luptat pentru visul nostru p\u00e2n\u0103 Ia cap\u0103t. Pentru c\u0103: nu e altitudinea, e atitudinea. Adi, Tibi \u015fiLuci, 6 august 2010, Korzhenevskaya, 7105 metri”. Nici s\u0103 l\u0103crimeze n-au putut, c\u0103 le-au \u015fi \u00eenghe\u0163at lacrimile pe obraji. \u0218tiau c\u0103 dintre to\u0163i cei care pleac\u0103 spre Pamir doar 30% ajung p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een v\u00e2rf. \u0218i parc\u0103 nu le venea s\u0103 cread\u0103 c\u0103 lor le-a reu\u015fit chiar \u015fi a\u015fa, cu bani pu\u0163ini \u015fi echipament vechi, de \u00eemprumut. La cobor\u00e2re, la 6000 de metri \u00een furtun\u0103, cea\u0163\u0103 \u015fi viscol, au dat peste e\u015farfa plin\u0103 de s\u00e2nge a unei iranience disp\u0103rut\u0103 de c\u00e2teva zile. Iar peste alte zeci de ore de \u0163ur\u0163uri la nas \u015fi la barb\u0103, s-au \u00eenfiorat de povestea colegilor iranieni bloca\u0163i \u00een ghea\u0163\u0103, f\u0103r\u0103 gaz, la peste 7000 de metri. Dar pe Tibi toate astea l-au ambi\u0163ionat. A\u015fa c\u0103 anul trecut iar s-a rupt de lume p\u00e2n\u0103-n Pamir, dar mai sus, la 7495 de metri, pe v\u00e2rful Kommunismus. (Va urma)<\/p>\n

sursa:\u00a0http:\/\/jurnalul.ro\/special-jurnalul\/reportaje\/hoinarii-oraseni-pe-muchie-de-cutit-intre-gheturi-si-prapastii-video-637582.html<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Cine sunt rom\u00e2nii care-\u015fi preg\u0103tesc anul sabatic pe Everest. C\u0103l\u0103torii la limita dintre via\u0163\u0103 \u015fi moarte Tibi scr\u00e2\u015fne\u015fte din din\u0163i desfigurat, se lupt\u0103 cu dou\u0103 gantere, g\u00e2f\u00e2ie \u015fi apoi, lac de sudoare, trage u\u015fa s\u0103lii de sport \u015fi o ia la s\u0103n\u0103toasa prin z\u0103pad\u0103. Nu, n-a fugit, z\u00e2mbe\u015fte Bogdan C\u00e2l\u0163ia, antrenorul. \u201cL-am trimis afar\u0103 s\u0103 […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":998,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"","_seopress_titles_title":"","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[81],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1175","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-presa"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1175","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1175"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1175\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/998"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1175"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1175"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1175"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}