{"id":1177,"date":"2013-02-26T10:35:46","date_gmt":"2013-02-26T10:35:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/adventure.mystagingwebsite.com\/cine-joaca-ruleta-ruseasca-la-8000-de-metri-inaltime-jurnalul-national\/"},"modified":"2014-09-29T06:15:14","modified_gmt":"2014-09-29T06:15:14","slug":"cine-joaca-ruleta-ruseasca-la-8000-de-metri-inaltime-jurnalul-national","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/cine-joaca-ruleta-ruseasca-la-8000-de-metri-inaltime-jurnalul-national\/","title":{"rendered":"Cine joac\u0103 ruleta ruseasc\u0103 la 8000 de metri \u00een\u0103l\u021bime (Jurnalul National)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>\u201cLa &#8211; 40 de grade faci r\u0103ni \u00een nas, \u00ee\u021bi plesnesc capilarele \u0219i te doare tot. Ai pofte, amnezii , halucina\u021bii\u201d\u00a0<\/strong><br \/>\n\u201cHei, ai idee cum ajung la tab\u0103ra urm\u0103toare?\u201d. \u201cSigur, drept \u00een fa\u021b\u0103 \u0219i la st\u00e2nga dup\u0103 primul cadavru cu cizmele ro\u0219ii!\u201d. Sunt scene reale care poate se \u00eent\u00e2mpl\u0103 chiar acum, \u00een aceast\u0103 secund\u0103, pe cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bii ai lumii. Alpinistul Tiberiu Pintilie (Tibi) le-a tr\u0103it \u00een Himalaya \u0219i-n Pamir \u0219i poate le va retr\u0103i \u0219i vara aceasta, \u00een expedi\u021bia de pe Everest cu \u00eenc\u0103 trei prieteni. Dar nu-i nimic terifiant, astea-s lucruri normale dac\u0103 vrei o c\u0103l\u0103torie-n nori, zice. Pentru Everest, de pild\u0103, pl\u0103te\u0219ti zeci de mii de euro doar taxa de urcare \u0219i te preg\u0103te\u0219ti un an sau doi, ca s\u0103 treci senin pe l\u00e2ng\u0103 cadavre cu ochii deschi\u0219i, pe jumate \u00eengropate-n z\u0103pad\u0103 ori cu degetele ie\u0219ind albe din ghea\u021b\u0103. Iar asta se \u00eent\u00e2mpl\u0103 chiar \u0219i mai pe jos, pe la 5 000 \u2013 6.000 de metri. Sunt resturile curajo\u0219ilor omor\u00e2\u021bi de presiune, de ger \u0219i de oboseal\u0103 chiar pe ultima sut\u0103 de metri, pe drumul de \u00eentoarcere, poate chiar imediat dup\u0103 ce au cucerit v\u00e2rful. C\u0103ci cei mai mul\u021bi, zice Tibi, a\u0219a mor, la cobor\u00e2re, f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103-\u0219i dea seama. Se a\u0219eaz\u0103-n z\u0103pad\u0103 pentru un minut de odihn\u0103 \u0219i se mai trezesc pe lumea cealalt\u0103.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>Everest: 200 de mor\u021bi \u00eenfip\u021bi \u00een poteci<\/strong><br \/>\nDar cu toate astea, lumea civilizat\u0103 produce din ce \u00een ce mai mul\u021bi expedi\u021bionari ai \u00een\u0103l\u021bimilor. Sunt excentricii ne\u00een\u021bele\u0219i care dau concediile frumoase \u0219i confortabile pe o \u201crulet\u0103 ruseasc\u0103\u201d extrem de riscant\u0103 \u0219i de scump\u0103. Cunosc prea bine ce \u00eenseamn\u0103 s\u0103 for\u021bezi bariera de oxigen, dar tot pleac\u0103. \u0218tiu c\u0103 numai Everestul are peste 200 de cadavre \u00eenfipte-n poteci. \u0218tiu \u0219i c\u0103 unul din opt alpini\u0219ti pleca\u021bi spre v\u00e2rf nu se mai \u00eentorc niciodat\u0103. Sau cel pu\u021bin a\u0219a ar\u0103tau cifrele acum zece ani. Dar ei se \u00eenc\u0103p\u0103\u021b\u00e2neaz\u0103 s\u0103 schimbe statistica. Iar Tibi este unul dintre ei. A respirat la 8000 de metri \u0219i acum nimic nu-l mai sperie. Ne poveste\u0219te simplu \u0219i firesc, ca \u0219i cum ar vorbi despre altcineva: \u201cDe la 5500 de metri \u00een sus\u00a0 corpul \u00eencepe s-o ia razna. \u021ai se schimb\u0103 digestia \u0219i procesul de nutri\u021bie, organismul nu te mai ascult\u0103, r\u0103nile nu \u021bi se mai vindec\u0103. \u201cDe la 7000 \u00een sus e alt\u0103 lume. La minus 40 \u2013 minus 60 de grade faci r\u0103ni \u00een nas, \u00ee\u021bi plesnesc capilarele \u0219i te doare tot. De la altitudinea aia nimic din organism nu \u021bi se mai regenereaz\u0103 \u0219i corpul \u00eencepe s\u0103-\u021bi moar\u0103 pu\u021bin c\u00e2te pu\u021bin. Iar principala te grij\u0103 devine s\u0103 nu mori. Creierul func\u021bioneaz\u0103 altfel dec\u00e2t \u0219tiai tu, \u00eencepi s\u0103 ai halucina\u021bii \u0219i tot felul de poftele. Eu, de exemplu, \u0219i jos, \u00een Mineralnye Vody (n.r. \u00een traducere, ap\u0103 mineral\u0103 \u00een limba rus\u0103) visam noaptea numai ap\u0103 mineral\u0103. Dac\u0103 nu e\u0219ti foarte bine aclimatizat faci edem pulmonar \u0219i cerebral, adic\u0103 \u021bi se umfl\u0103 capul la propriu \u0219i ai senza\u021bia c\u0103-\u021bi\u00a0 plesne\u0219te. \u0218i n-ai \u00eencotro, trebuie s\u0103 te \u00eentorci, chiar dac\u0103 te-ai preg\u0103tit un an \u00eentreg pentru expedi\u021bia aia. Exist\u0103 alpini\u0219ti cu mult\u0103 experien\u021b\u0103 care fac edem \u0219i se \u00eentorc acas\u0103, uneori asta-i chestie de noroc, n-ai cum s-o controlezi\u201d.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>\u201c\u00cel \u00eentrebi de ce te-a strigat, el a \u0219i uitat. \u0218i-\u021bi vine s\u0103-l m\u0103n\u00e2nci de ciud\u0103\u201d<\/strong><br \/>\n\u201cOricum, oric\u00e2t de bine aclimatizat e\u0219ti, din cauza lipsei de oxigen te doare capul, vomi\u021bi \u0219i ai amnezie. Pur \u0219i simplu, c\u00e2nd te a\u0219ezi la mas\u0103, \u00een cort, po\u021bi s\u0103-\u021bi dai seama c\u0103 nu-\u021bi mai aminte\u0219ti lucruri m\u0103runte, ce voiai s\u0103-i zici colegului, nume de obiecte&#8230;\u00a0 stai s\u0103 te \u00eentrebi cum \u00eei zice lingurii, te chinui s\u0103-\u021bi aminte\u0219ti \u0219i uneori de abia mai reu\u0219e\u0219ti s\u0103 legi cuvintele. Sunt, a\u0219a, ca ni\u0219te pete albe pe creierul t\u0103u. Iar chestia asta te mai \u021bine o vreme \u0219i dup\u0103 ce ai ajuns jos, acas\u0103. De pild\u0103 eu, \u00eentors odat\u0103 de pe munte, am uitat cum o cheam\u0103 pe o foarte bun\u0103 prieten\u0103 pe care o \u0219tiam de mult\u0103 vreme. Iar al\u021bi alpini\u0219ti au probleme cu discursurile c\u00e2nd se \u00eentorc. \u0218i mai e ceva: la peste 7000 de metri po\u021bi s\u0103 te enervezi din nimic \u2013 noi ne-am certat odat\u0103 pe un simplu baton de ciocolat\u0103. Dar te po\u021bi sup\u0103ra pe cel\u0103lalt doar fiindc\u0103 \u0219i-a legat \u0219iretul \u00eentr-un fel. Sau doar fiindc\u0103 vine \u00een spatele t\u0103u \u0219i te strig\u0103. Normal, tu-\u021bi auzi numele \u0219i te chinui s\u0103 \u00eentorci capul, din instinct, uit\u00e2nd c\u0103 asta te ame\u021be\u0219te sau c\u0103 \u021bi-ai propus, oricum, s\u0103 stai nemi\u0219cat ca s\u0103-\u021bi conservi astfel toat\u0103 energia disponibil\u0103. C\u0103 da, uneori trebuie s\u0103 faci \u0219i asta. Ei, \u0219i c\u00e2nd \u00eel \u00eentrebi pe \u0103la de ce te-a strigat, el a \u0219i uitat. \u0218i-\u021bi vine s\u0103-l m\u0103n\u00e2nci de ciud\u0103\u201d.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>Prima friptur\u0103, dup\u0103 dou\u0103 luni \u00een mun\u021bi: \u201cNe-am uitat unul la altul \u0219i am \u00eenceput s\u0103 pl\u00e2ngem\u201d<\/strong><br \/>\n\u00cel \u00eentreb\u0103m cum \u0219i-a f\u0103cut nevoile la \u00een\u0103l\u021bimile alea. Z\u00e2mbe\u0219te. \u201cP\u0103i uite a\u0219a: pipi faci \u00een sticl\u0103. Dac\u0103 bate v\u00e2ntul tare sau e furtun\u0103, devine o aventur\u0103 p\u00e2n\u0103 \u0219i s\u0103 \u021bii sticla drept. Pe urm\u0103, treaba mare normal e s\u0103 o faci c\u00e2t mai des, s\u0103 elimini toxinele. De obicei \u00ee\u021bi sapi singur groap\u0103-n ghea\u021b\u0103. Dar nu po\u021bi s\u0103 faci destul de des, normal, e imposibil la minus 40 de grade. D-aia e bine s\u0103 te chinui s\u0103 faci o dat\u0103 \u0219i bine! Dac\u0103 te ia diareea la 7000 de metri e foarte, foarte r\u0103u. \u0218i te cam ia c\u0103 organismul t\u0103u nu\u00a0 e f\u0103cut pentru \u00een\u0103l\u021bimile alea. Du\u0219 faci la ghe\u021bar. Sau po\u021bi s\u0103 stai \u0219i o lun\u0103 nesp\u0103lat. Microbii cam mor la frigul \u0103la, at\u00e2ta numai c\u0103 \u021bi se formeaz\u0103 pe corp a\u0219a, o crust\u0103 neagr\u0103. \u00ce\u0219i mai dai cu un \u0219erve\u021bel umed pe tine, dar jegul tot \u00een piele r\u0103m\u00e2ne\u201d. Iar dup\u0103 experien\u021bele astea, dup\u0103 ce coboar\u0103 din nou \u00een lumea civilizat\u0103, parc\u0103 vede totul cu al\u021bi ochi. Dintr-o dat\u0103 m\u00e2ncarea devine mai bun\u0103, cerul mai albastru, iarba mai verde, oamenii mai buni, femeile mai frumoase, iar el mai fericit. \u201cNu c\u0103 apreciez acum apa cald\u0103 mai mult dec\u00e2t \u00eenainte\u2026 apreciez apa curent\u0103! Nici nu ne d\u0103m seama c\u00e2t de noroco\u0219i suntem c\u0103 avem ap\u0103 s\u0103 ne sp\u0103l\u0103m oric\u00e2nd vrem noi! Iar c\u00e2nd am cobor\u00e2t cu Adi de pe munte &#8211; dup\u0103 dou\u0103 luni de conserve, batoane \u0219i sup\u0103 la plic &#8211; \u0219i ni s-a pus \u00een fa\u021b\u0103 o farfurie cu friptur\u0103 cald\u0103, ne-am uitat unul la altul \u0219i am \u00eenceput s\u0103 pl\u00e2ngem. \u0218i abia dup\u0103 aia am m\u00e2ncat\u201d. (Va urma)<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/iaTfoYldwVk\" width=\"420\" height=\"236\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><br \/>\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/BI2TlvNJxCo\" width=\"420\" height=\"236\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u201cHei, ai idee cum ajung la tab\u0103ra urm\u0103toare?\u201d. \u201cSigur, drept \u00een fa\u021b\u0103 \u0219i la st\u00e2nga dup\u0103 primul cadavru cu cizmele ro\u0219ii!\u201d. Sunt scene reale care poate se \u00eent\u00e2mpl\u0103 chiar acum, \u00een aceast\u0103 secund\u0103, pe cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mun\u021bii ai lumii. Alpinistul Tiberiu Pintilie (Tibi) le-a tr\u0103it \u00een Himalaya \u0219i-n Pamir \u0219i poate le va retr\u0103i \u0219i vara aceasta, \u00een expedi\u021bia de pe Everest cu \u00eenc\u0103 trei prieteni.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1346,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"","_seopress_titles_title":"","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[81],"tags":[51],"class_list":["post-1177","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-presa","tag-everest-tag"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1177","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1177"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1177\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1346"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1177"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1177"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/adventurediplomacy.org\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1177"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}