Acasă Blog Pagina 39

Heading Riga

Heading for Riga – 2010.07.19

Plecarea din Bucuresti a fost grea si foarte calduroasa, poate si din pricina faptului ca am avut toate hainele pe noi (nu mai incapeau in bagajul de mana, si nici in cel de cala :D). Cu siguranta astazi am fost atractia aeroportului Otopeni, dar am stiut sa intoarcem cu un zambet dragut sau cu o gluma orice privire suspicioasa. Pozele va vor spune mai multe!

In avionul spre Riga ne-am bucurat din plin de aerul conditionat! De la aeroport ne-am intalnit cu Dace (Riga) si Andrey (Ljubliana)- prietenii lui Luci la care vor dormi aceasta noapte. Fara sa stam mult pe ganduri am acceptat invitatia lor de a merge la Marea Baltica. Ne-am balacit, ne-am bucurat de utimele raze ale soarelui si am prins un apus fantastic. Am ajuns la 00:00 inapoi la Dace, e inca lumina afara, ceva neobisnuit pentru noi, iar acum degustam berile locale!
Maine dimineata vom merge sa vizitam centrul orasului, iar seara speram sa va dam mesaj din Dushanbe de pe telefonul prin satelit!

Va salutam cu dor de pe meleaguri letoniene!
Luci, Adrian, Tibi, Radu

For you guys, Dace and Andrey, thank you for the great hospitality, for the Kefir 🙂 and for the “fabulous” national bread!

Pregatirea pentru Pamir 2010

Ultimele zile inainte de plecare au fost grele din toate punctele de vedere: antrenament, telefoane, intalniri, recuperat echipamente, reparat, probat, testat etc. Multe lucrurile mici si importante au ramas de facut chiar inainte de a pleca, tocmai din cauza aceasta ne-am stabilit zilele de 17 18 si 19 iulie pentru a rezolva neprevazutul. Poate cel mai greu a fost sa sortam si sa ambalam muntele de echipament, sa alegem ce avem mai usor si de calitate cat mai buna. Dintr-o magazie plina de echipamente de alpinism am reusit sa facem 4 rucsaci mari si 4 bagaje de mana – pentru avion. In Dushanbe vom ateriza, recupera bagajul de cala, si reface rucsacii pentru urcare. Planul este sa cumparam mancarea “normala” din Tadjikistan (pe cea speciala de altitudine am luat-o din Romania), apoi sa merge pana in Djirgital cu camionul rusesc cateva ore bune. Acolo ne asteapta elicopterul care ne va duce pe morena ghetarului Moskvina, ce curge la baza varfului mult dorit. Acolo ne-am pregatit pentru neprevazut inca din prima zi, pentru ca in functie de cum reactioneaza organismele noastre avem strategii de abordare diferite. Despre acestea, intr-un post viitor!

Magazia lui Adi a fost pentru cateva saptamani un adevarat depozit de echipament de munte!

Apoi probele echipamentului. Am testat pufoaicele, la temperaturi de +30 grade, oare vor rezista si la -30?. Speram ca da!

Unii ar crede ca plecam pe luna, dar nu, ne pregatim pentru expeditia din Pamir! 🙂

Pentru cateva zile, curtea lui Adi a fost un “dezmat montan”:

Iar dupa ce am strans tot si le-am pus unde le este locul, Tibi s-a revigorat cu Wheybar-ul de la Redis. Poza pentru sponsor:

Din pregatirile pe care le-am facut asta e tot ce am apucat sa mai publicam, la ora 3:38, in dimineata plecarii. Incercam sa dormim putin si maine revenim cu ultimul mesaj pentru voi!

Lucian, Adrian, Tiberiu si Radu
🙂

Lyalever

Caucasus. Lyalever – One – 2009.08.17

We thought it was a 2B. It would have been enough for our experience. But we missed the easiest path, so we took the classical one: a 4B, mixed ice and rock climbing, 70-80 degree slopes and belaying at downclimb. Russian style

The alarm went off at 3:30. Much too early we thought, we could wait and leave at 5. And so we did. Fortunately, it was again one of those days. Clear skies in paradise.

This was the known part. Another half of the day for the unknown…

Bezengi Lager – Caucasus

0

It wasn’t until 10 o’clock that we left for the wall. It took us a long time to sort and pack everything, as we wanted to carry as little luggage as possible. Then we had to talk to the mountain rescuers about our routes. They didn’t give us any radio transmitter, saying only that we had to come back in at most 3 days. Otherwise, they would have sent a team search and rescue us. The guides showed us some photos of Lyalver.

This was our target. By far the easiest peak of the majestic wall of Bezengi, 4350 meters tall. There were taller mountains in the area, a lot easier, but this was our dream: to climb the wall. Of course, we wanted very much to climb the snow pyramid of Gestola as well, but after all it remained for some other time. Lyalver was the first in the western part, and in comparison to the giants near it, it seemed small and easy. At least in pictures…

The team from Odessa. Very nice people; we spent there the best evening from the whole expedition. They were hiking in the Caucasus, and were also trying to climb Gestola. Unlike us, they had down jackets. They explained that sometimes up there it can be extremely cold, even in august. Frostbites were also common…

I was outside taking some pictures, while Ileana was talking to our camp colleagues. They said that day they had been to the base of Lyalver, called Black Rocks, but it was too damn clod and windy there, so they went back. Cold? In your down jackets? Yes, very cold. Hmm… in our Gore-Tex thing jackets, probably it would have been a nightmare to go there on such weather. They all went outside to eat and invited us to drink with them, and then to have some soup. The proposal was impossible to refuse as our meal was not ready: we were busy taking pictures 🙂

With their precarious equipment, they were different from the French alpinists we met in Mont Blanc, who were very well equipped. Also, unlike other teams, they were very “human”. Because this is what mountaineering is all about: team play, toughness of the body and good spirit.

Cheers! For us, for our expeditions, for the mountains and for all the ones that dare to climb them! Live long, live free!

The day ended around the stone table with stories, guitar music (yes, they even had one!), peanuts and alcohol. Looking up, we remembered it was the end of august, so we could see tens of meteors lighting the sky. The day couldn’t have ended without a picture long wanted: a long exposure, with star trails above the wall:

So I took the camera, the tripod, found a place near the camp an took it: 3 minutes exposure, f/4, ISO 800, with my old good Nikon D50. Because it’s not about the camera, it’s about the light.

Lyalever

0

Everything was about going further. Now it might not seem so hard, but at that point we were so close to coming back… with every step we took the chance and climbed a little more. The experience, the beauty, and the lesson learned were worth the risk. Just like every time…

We had no idea about the steepness of the climb. Though, we climbed further.

We reached the tent after 3 hours in the dark, searching our way on the glacier. Coming back from just beneath the top proved to be a wise choice.

We were done for the time. After climbing the Wall, you only want to drink and sleep. A long, deep sleep.